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Sport Scale
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Sport Scale
provides the challenge of using one's craftsmanship to construct a nice looking
scale model of a real rocket. The competition goes beyond looks, as entries are
also judged on their flight characteristics and lack of post-flight damage.
The Sport Scale model must be based on an existing or
historical guided missile, rocket vehicle, or space vehicle.
If the real rocket was staged, the model has to have
all the stages. For example, the WAC Corporal was 2-staged, so an entry that
models just the upper stage by itself is not legal for the event. Same goes for
the Navy's sea-launched versions of the "Tomahawk"
cruise missile. Models of those need to include the rocket boosters that got
them airborne.
Sport Scale entries cannot exceed 1500 grams
(approximately 3.3 pounds) mass at liftoff.
Each entry must make at least one safe and stable
flight (two flights are allowed), otherwise the model is disqualified and the
static score is useless. The model can be clustered or staged (stages need to
recover in a safe manner: a Saturn-V first stage tumbling to the ground
"like the real thing" would be disqualified). Clustering or staging
is not recommended for inexperienced fliers.
Entering for judging: Turn-in for static judging will be Sunday night. The model needs
to be entered in the same condition it will be for flight. No parts may be
added or removed between judging and flying, other than internal parts such as
the recovery system. Your NAR number should be on the model. Many contestants
use decals or dry transfer numbers for this. A display stand of some type is
useful, but not required. The stand is not judged but is nice to keep the model
from falling over , and it helps present the model at a desired viewing angle.
Scoring -
For Sport Scale, the model is judged in advance to arrive at a static score.
The static score is based on Craftsmanship and Difficulty. When flown, it is
also judged for General flight points (including lack of flight damage), and
"
Engines -
You can use any NAR Contest Certified engine that is suitable,
considering the weight and drag of your model and the time delay to ejection.
However, the maximum engine total impulse allowed is 160 Newton-Seconds (Full G
power). The sum of the total impulses of the engines in clusters and multiple
stages cannot exceed 160 N-sec.
For the full rules for this event, please see
the Sport Scale Rules
on the NAR web page.
Model choice is important. - What makes a good choice for you to build for
Sport Scale is just that, what will be good for YOU.
If you are not good at masking off corrugations to
create black and white roll patterns, then a Saturn is probably not a good
choice for you to make.
It is nice to choose a model that inspires you to
learn new skills. But not if it is going to involve learning a number of
different skills that you won't have time to master well enough to complete a
good model. Should you choose a model that will involve new skills and
techniques, it is best if you learn those skills early. Allow extra time to
learn and test them out before building the real model.
Choose something that you feel you can do a good job
on. Also, it tends to help if you actually like the vehicle you are building a
scale model of.
Try to plan out the time the model will take to
complete. Usually, one can come up with a time estimate and then multiply it by
1.5 or 2 times, as things inevitably take longer to complete. This can be
especially true when you're learning new methods or trying new things for the
first time. It is not good to have a nice model that is a couple of nights shy
of being completed in time, or a model rushed to completion so that it suffers
in appearance. Order any special parts or supplies EARLY.
A list of kits, and a list of data sources is included
further down on this page.
Note that some manufacturers make some kit models that look scale-like but are not based on a real rocket. If you are looking for a kit, make sure it is of a real rocket, missile, or launch vehicle. Some manufacturers have made kits of "bombs", but those are not rockets or missiles, and are not be legal for Sport Scale. Neither is an SR-71 (it's a jet), while an X-1 or X-15 would be OK as those were rocket powered.
Scale Data -
Something to also consider is whether you can collect enough data to document
your model. Sport Scale is a fairly easy event to obtain data for, though. The
minimum data needed is:
- Outline
data - Either a drawing (or set of drawings) that show the outline of the
rocket, or one or more photographs sufficient to show the outline.
- Finish,
Color, and Markings data - one or more photographs, or one or more
drawings, which show the finish, color, and markings.
You might wish to read the Sport Scale rules
for the fully detailed description of the data.
If you are building a kit, make sure that you find the
right data to go with it. If the kit does not look similar to the data/photos
of the real thing, then warning bells should go off. It may be the kit is
wrong, or that the kit is OK but is of a mission or version that is different
from what the data represents. Or, the kit may be "semi-scale", not
as accurate as one might desire.
Rockets on static display (such as at museums) are too
often poor sources of documentation. Many are not painted correctly, and some
were not even assembled right. It's best to go with data and photos based on
the real thing that flew, if at all possible.
Don't get too hung up on the data part, though. If you
are building from a kit, almost surely there are plenty of drawings and usually
photos that you can obtain if you look hard enough. A list
scale data sources is included further down on this page.
Building from scratch
If you do not build a kit, here are some tips to keep
in mind.
What size? -
First, determine what scale to build the model. You may have in mind what
general size you want to build, regarding length or diameter, so choose a
ballpark size and then see what scale ratio would give you a model of that
size. Also consider the weight and engine power (more later).
There is a very handy Body Tube diameter & ratio
chart on the WOOSH section's website (PDF
version, Excel
version). It lists a lot of tube diameters which are available from many
different vendors.
Looking at the scale data, divide the real rocket's
diameter by the diameter of the body tube you have in mind. For example, a
16.5" diameter for the real rocket, and 1.637" for a BT-60. The resulting
scale would be 1 to 10.079 (or 1/10.079). Well, after primer and paint, that
BT-60 will be larger than 1.637", and this is sport scale, so the scale
for such a model might as well be rounded to 1/10.
If the rocket has more than one body tube diameter,
you may have to reconsider the scale until you find two (or more) tube
diameters that match up closely enough to look right. You could also consider
making a custom tube, or to resize an existing tube to a smaller diameter. See
the tip
from John Pursley on reducing a tube's diameter.
So, having determined what scale the model will be,
divide all of the dimensions of the real thing by the scale factor (in this
case 10). It helps to use a photocopy of the original data so you can write in
the model dimensions. Now, some data sources do not list dimensions directly,
but as "Station Numbers" (often with a "STA" prefix). So
you have to work out the particular dimensions between any two given station
numbers. It's not hard, just different. Here is a drawing
for a Saturn-IB, at 1/66 scale, which is a good example of station
numbers and the dimensions that were derived from those numbers. This
particular drawing shows both the original full size dimensions, as well as the
1/66 scale dimensions (Full size dimensions were derived frist, from the STA
numbers. Then the 1/66 dimensions were derived from the full size dimensions).
This being Sport Scale, the model won't be measured.
But you need to work out the dimensions, and keep track of them for your
workshop references, so you can build it accurately enough to look right. Go
over the numbers again, as a "sanity check", to make sure you didn't
make some calculation error that may not be obvious until it is too late.
Nose cones & adapters - Are there any commercial nose cones that will work
for the model you are planning? Some companies might offer the right shape, but
only for certain diameters of tubes. So if you want to use those noses, you'll
have to base the scale of the model on the tube diameter that fits that nose.
Same thing for adapters/reducers.
For totally custom parts, you can turn your own nose cones
or adapters using a simple lathe or even an electric drill. But that is not as
necessary to do these days, thanks to the emergence of Balsa Machining Service (BMS).
They make custom nose cones, adapters, and nose blocks to order. Check
out the order form on their site as to the different shapes they make. They
also do custom laser-cutting work.
If you would like to have lightweight hollow plastic
parts , you could consider vacuum-forming. Here is an article on how to
make your own simple
vac-former.
Here are tips from Peter Alway, on how to calculate an adapter shroud
(for thin cardboard or thin plastic), and for cutting
body tubes (A fresh single sided razor blade is preferred by some,
instead of a model knife).
There is also Robert Blaske's online Shroud Calculator
on EMRR (uses Javascript).
Mass and thrust:
The model won't go very high if it's too heavy for the engine it's flying on.
Some scale models can be heavy for their relative size, and some require
additional noseweight. Estimate the weight of the completed model, ready to
fly, and determine what kind of engine necessary for the job based on other
models of similar weight and drag.
The thrustline should be through the center of gravity
of the model, or very close to it. If not, the model will pitch over under
thrust. Fortunately for "normal" rockets this is simple, the
cylindrical body of a Saturn-V-type model means the center of gravity will be
in the center of the body. But something like a space shuttle, with the orbiter
offset on one side, calls for a very special thrustline layout.
Clustered models have a bigger problem. All the
engines must ignite at the same time or the model may pitch badly at liftoff,
which may cause it to crash.
The same can be said for the risks of staging scale
models. So, clustering or staging is not recommended, unless you have lots of
good experience, ideally including boilerplate testing.
Stability: Some
scale models need help to be stable. The easy way is to add noseweight (such as
clay, or small lead fishing weights embedded in clay), which is fine for some
models. For other models, the engine may not be able to lift any additional
weight, or there may not be room to add noseweight. The fins may be too small,
or non-existent, so the fin area must be increased. However, noticeably
increasing the size of the scale fins will give the judges reason to take off
points from the outline score.
So, if a model really needs to have more fin area,
clear plastic fins may be the way to go. Some kits like the old Estes Space
Shuttle stack, and Titan-IV, used plug-in opaque fins painted black (plugging
into the bottom of the SRB's). Judges almost always take off significant points
for models whose fins are done that way.
Clear fins are notoriously difficult to glue on neatly
and mask off for painting, so this is not a good route for the less
experienced. If you choose to use clear fins, you can get the 0.04" clear
plastic made by Plastruct. That clear plastic is a bit flexible, this is not a
problem for small fins but can be for large fins. If flexing is a problem, try
to find cheap clear plastic boxes to cannibalize for stiff clear fin material.
However, one of the most ideal clear fin materials is Lexan (aka
Polycarbonate). You can find 1/32" and 1/16" thicknesses of it sold
by Micro-Mark. Do not use Cyanoacrylate to attach clear fins. It does not work
well, and it often frosts up the plastic. It is not easy to glue clear fins to
rocket body tubes. Even epoxy does not really bond well to plastic.
If you have the skill to do it neatly, and if the
model is suitable, you can use the slot and tab method with the clear fins.
Perform the following steps before you glue in the engine mount. You may need
to plan a careful assembly sequence in order to do this.
Cut the fins with a tab in the root meant to fit into
a slot in scale model's body tube. Use great care in cutting out slots that are
exactly the width of the fin thickness, or perhaps a hair undersize, then file
slightly wider as needed. Drill a few holes into the tab portion of the clear
fin, so you can epoxy the fin into the tube, with the epoxy on the inside of
the tube. The holes in the tabs will allow the epoxy to grab into the holes
like rivets (this is a method best tested out first with scrap plastic and
tubing). Mask off the fins very carefully so that paint won't creep onto the
clear fin.
Boilerplate testing
- If you are going to make your own scale model from scratch, not a kit, this
can be very important. The more difficult or complicated the model will be, the
more you ought to consider testing a boilerplate model. Given the above
considerations, you've chosen a model and are ready to put your ideas and plans
into action by building. But will the model really work? Would you like to know
for sure your scale model will work before building a detailed pretty model?
It's highly recommended to build a "boilerplate" model first and find
out. This means you make a simple model that is basically like your final scale
model, but it can be built more simply and quickly. Don't paint it or worry
about details, or any time-consuming things that are not relevant to testing
out the flying qualities. Then fly it, and see if it works. If it crashes, you
saved a lot of time and effort, and might be able to determine how to solve the
problem if you want to try again. If it works, great, you now have the
confidence to invest that time and effort. Here's an example of a boilerplate
test flight for a large clustered Little Joe-II.
More general tips for all models, kit
or scratch built
Time management and planning - This was mentioned before, but bears repeating.
However long you think it will take to make a scale model, it will take longer.
So try to allow for more time to build it, if at all possible. Anything
new....test out the techniques in advance if you can, so you can avoid messing
up the real model. If some method just won't work at all you can plan for an
alternative without being stuck in the middle of building the model.
Kit upgrades:
A half measure between building from scratch, and doing a kit, is to get a kit
that may not have much detailing to it or parts that are not quite accurate,
and add your own extra detailing or improved parts. Same for upgrading the
markings, including replacing stick-on decals with water-slide type decals.
As well, a kit based on one round or mission might
serve as the foundation for significant modification to a different one. Such
as a Bumper-Wac (V-2 with Wac-Corporal upper stage) or a Skylab Saturn-V.
Custom Decals
- Tango Papa Decals offers a
variety of decals for certain scale models, at almost any desired scale. They
can also do custom decal work, and sell blank decal paper. Highly recommended.
Some people make custom decals, printing them on
inkjet printers or color copiers. Micro Mark sells blank
decal paper meant for inkjet printers, and another type of blank
paper meant for color copiers or laser printers (they have both clear sheets,
and white sheets). Be sure to buy a can of clear "fixative" to
overcoat the decals, especially the inkjet type since without the clear coat,
water will make the inkjet ink run. See Micro Mark's instructions
for decal paper.
Finishing:
Craftsmanship counts for 300 out of 800 total points in static scoring. That's
a lot. There's an all too true story about spending weeks (or longer) building
a great model, and messing it up in ten seconds during painting.
Try to fill the body tube spiral seams, as visible
spiral seams will cost points. One way to do this is to use masking tape to
mask off the whole tube EXCEPT for the seam (if the seam has a 1/16" gap,
then there should be a 1/16" gap between the making tape on each side of
the seam). Then use a good primer to spray a coat that will go only into that
seam. Some builders like Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer--available at auto
stores--as it is easy to sand. Others have success using Krylon's white
sandable primer, which is more easily obtained but can have problems with
clogging up the sandpaper too quickly.
After letting the primer dry fully, apply more coats
(letting dry fully between coats) until the buildup of the primer will be
taller than the seam recess depth was. Then remove the masking tape and apply a
couple of coats of white primer to the whole tube. The primer paint filling the
seam should be visible as standing above the rest of the white primer on the
tube. Use sandpaper to knock down the primer covering the seam and make it
flush with the primer on the rest of the tube. Don't overdo it. When the seam
is pretty much flush, give the whole tube another coat or two of white primer
and sand the whole tube until it's uniform, no hint of the seam left.
If the fins, nose, or other parts are wood, try your
best to fill all of the wood grain. Try to make you model's fin shapes like the
real rocket's fins. Make sure that sharp leading edges are sharp, blunt edges
are blunt, straight edges are straight, and so forth. Some people do not use
even wood fins, they build them up out of thin plastic or other suitable
materials that will give the best end result.
Always test out any new paints, and new methods you
plan to do, first. So if some paints do not react well, you can learn that
without messing up the model. This is also true for decals, especially decals
and clear coats. Some clear coats can actually attack decals, others do not
hurt the decals, but make the clear film very visible rather than disappearing.
Paints for plastic models are usually good for scale
rocket models. Spray cans are typically used. An airbrush is nice but overkill
for many basic model's needs. If you want a flat finish but will be using
decals, use gloss paint(s) first, apply the decals, then apply a flat clear
coat. Otherwise, decals applied over flat paint look "silvery" in the
clear areas of the decal. Anytime different paint types are used, do a test
first on some scrap plastic or other material. Some paints are not compatible
with other paints. Carefully applied scotch "magic" tape can work
well for some simple masking jobs. After applying the second color, remove the
tape mask about 30 minutes later, before the new paint gets "hard",
so the tape will come off without bringing chipped flakes of the dried second
coat of paint.
Decal application
- Setting solutions make application and final positioning of the decals
easier. Tango Papa decals are easier to apply when using a setting solution.
Use a setting solution to help you slide the decals into place. Setting
solutions provide a "wet" film surface on the model that the decal
can slide on, so you can manipulate the decal into the right spot using a small
clean model brush. Do not confuse setting solution with decal softening
solutions. Softening solutions make the decal film pliable so it can go over
complicated surfaces (like recessed panel lines or even corrugations), but for
most model work the accidental use of a softening solution can risk damaging
the decals (unless you know what you are doing). Test out the use of a setting
solution with scrap decals to get the hang of doing it. Acetic acid--white
vinegar--is a good (and cheap) setting solution.
Recovery system:
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It is important to have a good strong reliable shock
cord and parachute system for the model. Some scale models are heavy and tend
to stress the recovery system a lot at deployment. Not surprisingly, the shock cord should be able to
absorb shock. Elastic is good for this. For models of 4-6 ounces, 1/8"
elastic is adequate, for heavier models 3/16-1/4" elastic is better. The
more length, the better the elastic can absorb the shock when the chute
deploys, but do not use so much that the recovery compartment tube is
crammed. For larger scale models, some use light-weight
1/4" tubular nylon, or the smaller tubular Kevlar. These absorb the
shock (by heating) with essentially no snap-back. Do not use cord-type
Kevlar, as it does not absorb shock significantly. Z-folding the shock cord,
taping each fold to the bundle with one wrap of masking tape, can add to
shock absorption if done the right way (and is a clean way to pack the cord). Parachutes need to be able to be stored small,
deploy well, and hold up without ripping or losing shroud lines. Cloth chutes
are great for strength, but depending on the size of the model such chutes
can take up too much space in the body tube. Mylar chutes can be packed very
small and tight. However, they can rip easily and sometimes do not deploy
reliably. Therefore mylar chutes really should be avoided for scale models. Commercial plastic chutes are suitable for many
small and mid-sized models, but need to be reinforced. For a 6-line chute,
replace the 6 lines with 3 very long lines, and run them across the top of
the chute as shown at right. Use extra tabs to secure the lines across the
top near the center. This ensures that no lines will pull out. |
click
drawing to see at twice size |
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Chute size is a judgment call. The larger the chute (or
chutes), the softer the landing...unless it's so big that it gets jammed
inside and the model crashes! Smaller chutes cause harder landings, but are
more reliable. Experiment with packing chutes in the tube you're using. If
you are not able to blow the chute out using lung power, go to a smaller
chute or try a different way to pack the chute. And when it comes time to
fly, remember to pack the chute the same way! Consider using more than one chute, it may be easier
to fit in two smaller chutes than one larger one, and if only one of those
two opens the model won't crash. At right is a photo of a Little Joe II model using
several parachutes and a very long shock cord. Two main chutes, plus a third
smaller one for the nose section. They are all linked together. The model had
limited chute srorage space. So the main chutes were packed inside first, and
the nose chute packed in last, so it would be the first to some out at
ejection. So, if the mains were not ejected out of the main body, the nose
cone's chute would act like a drogue chute to yank out the mains. This
"semi-drogue" parachute arrangement (everything linked, nose
section chute packed to easily come out first at ejection) is very reliable.
The method was inspired by some scale models that come down in separate
pieces, only to sometimes have the main body's chute jam in the tube and
plummet to the ground - with the nose section gently descending by itself,
almost mocking the fate of the crashed main body. |
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Entering & Flying
Entering for judging: Turn-in at NARAMs is usually Sunday night. If you can not make it
in time, someone else can turn it in for you. Contestants have sometimes even
shipped models by UPS or FedEx, carefully packed.
- The
model needs to be entered in the same condition it will be for flight. No
parts added or removed, other than internal parts such as the recovery
system and engine(s). Your NAR number should be on the model, many people
use decals or dry transfers.
- A
display stand of some type is useful, but not required. The stand is not
judged but is nice to keep the model from falling over, and it helps
present the model at a desired viewing angle.
- Submit
your data pack with the model. Include your NAR number with the data so
the judges will know whose model it belongs to. Additional information is
always useful. You can include information about how the model was built,
as it might not be obvious to the judges how difficult it may have been to
build the model or to add certain details, markings, or paint schemes.
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Flight Points
- When the model is flown, it will be judged in two ways. To quote from the
rules:
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General Flight - 100 points max. "General
Flight points are awarded for proper operation of the model during flight,
including launch, lack of misfires, stability, recovery, and lack of damage
on landing. No consideration should be given to staging or scale-like flight
characteristics, as these are covered under Mission Points - 200 points max. " |
The General Flight points are pretty basic. You want
the model to fly well, hopefully straight up without spinning or wobbling, with
good deployment of the recovery system and a soft landing. Pretty much like you
want with any model rocket you fly, just this time it's actually judged for how
it's flying.
If your model flies well, and you do not think it
would get a better score if it flew again, then you do not need to fly again.
If it didn't fly well, or got disqualified, but was in the running for a top
score, try again. If it crashed and was in the running for a top score, try a
"Humpty Dumpty" repair (rebuild?) session to see if you can make it
flyable again.
Good luck!
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click on thumbnails
More
Information:
- NARscale - An NAR
recognized special interest group - Site contains scale data, photos,
tips, and many useful links.
- "ScaleRoc"
Yahoogroup, the NARscale mailing list which discusses Scale Rocket Models.
- Also
see the RMR
Scale FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions).
Tips and techniques from John Pursley's Rocketry &
Spacemodel site:
- Organization
and Habits - Deciding what to build, how to build it, tracking
what you do, and doing it on time.
- Filling
Body Tube Spirals - One technique for filling those pesky
spiral seams in commercially available rocket body tubes...and it adds
almost no extra weight to the finished tube.
- Reducing
Body Tube Diameters - Reduce the diameter of a commercial body
tube. It's easier than you think.
- Optical
Aids - Magnifying glasses, hoods, and lenses will help even the
modeler with perfect vision build better .
- The
Most Important Rule - "Similarity of Outline" is the
most important though most often disregarded aspect of Sport Scale
competition.
- Playing
the "Grey Area" - The Pink Book's very first rule for
Sport Scale does a good job of making the competition all "grey"
rather than "black-and-white."
- Get
all the Points You Deserve - Scale Documentation is often the
weakest link in most Sport Scale entries.
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Data sources - Vendors
Data sources - Personal &
Public sites
Sites featuring contest type scale
rocket model projects or tips:
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Scale Kit Sources
Note that some manufacturers make kit models that look scale-like but are not based on a real rocket (sometimes called "Pseudo-scale", or "scale-like"). So, if you are looking for a kit, make sure it is of a real rocket, missile, or launch vehicle. Some manufacturers have made kits of "bombs", but those are not missiles, so would not be legal for Sport Scale.
Also note that kits can vary widely as to how accurate they are. If a company describes its kit as "semi-scale", then it likely is a scale model of a real rocket, but it probably compromises scale qualities and accuracy significantly.
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Kit sources |
Notes |
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Patriot Missile,
Cruise Missile, Bull Pup 12B Missile, Phoenix Missile, Mercury Redstone, V-2,
Saturn-V |
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Various scale kits, including Corporal, D - Region
Tomahawk, IQSY Tomahawk, FOTL, Kappa-7-1, Kappa-9M, RAM B, Rohini RH - 75, RP
- 3, Sandia Sandhawk, Sonda II B, Super Loki Dart, and V-2. ASP also has
theWac-Corporal, but only the two-staged kits with the "Tiny Tim"
booster are legal for Sport Scale. |
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Highly detailed Saturn-IB and Saturn-V kits, at 1/70
scale. If building the Saturn-V, keep in mind the 1500 gram and 160 N-sec
limits. |
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IQSY Tomahawk and Astrobee-D kits. |
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Two kits designed by Peter Alway: Arcas and Astrobee
1500 |
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Kits: Nike Smoke, Nike Apache, Vostok, Black Brant
II, Aerobee Hi |
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Black Brant 1/10
scale models by Taras Tataryn of ARG. BLACK BRANT series - I, IIB, III, IV,
V, VA, & VC |
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Missile Kits: Alarm, AMRAAM, Bull Pup, Guideline,
Lance, Little John, Sea Sparrow, Sidewinder |
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Various scale kits including Mercury-Redstone,
Mercury-Atlas, Gemini-Titan, and Juno-I |
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The
Launch Pad (TLP)
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Missile Kits:Alarm, AMRAAM AIM-120a, Anubis, ASM-1
(Type 80), ASRAAM, Bolo, Bullpup AGM-12B & 12C, Dragonfly, Exocet Am.39, Falcon
AIM-4C, Flail, Folgore, Gabriel III/AS, Gecko, Grail SA-7, HARM, Harpoon
AGM-84a, Hawk Mim-23a, (Improved) Hawk MIM-23B, Hellfire AGM-114a, Indigo,
Kormoran AS.34, Krypton, Lance Mgm-52, Martel AS.37, Martin Pescador, Matra
"Magic" R.550, Matra Super 530d, Maverick AGM-65b, Nike Ajax
Mim-3A, Osiris MPM, AC-3, Perseus, Perseus II, Pershing MGM-31A, Phoenix
AIM-54C, Rapier, Saab 372 (RB 72), Saab RB 05A, Scimitar, Seawolf,
Sidewinder, Sparrow AIM-7F, Standard AGM-78, Tan-Sam (Type 81), Type 30
Artillery Rocket. |
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Scale kits of the NASA Scout, Aries "Fat
Albert", Juno 1/Jupiter C, and NIKE Smoke. |
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By John Pursley. Incredibly detailed 1/12 scale
Mercury Capsule kit (capsule only). |
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Have scale & semi-scale kits. The 2.6" kits
include Army Hawk, Jayhawk, Sandhawk, & Standard ARM. Some of the
3.9" kits, aimed at higher power, may be too big to make it under the
1500 gram limit. |
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Kits: Sandia Tomahawk, Black Brant III, Zimcor
VIPER, MGM-52A Lance, XM-47 Little John, RV-A-10 Sergeant |
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Nike-Smoke kit. Unfortunately the new Quick-bulld
version seems to have a black body tube, with white UNITED STATES decals,
which is not correct. Painting the black tube white would be difficult to get
as white as the other parts, and would need custom decals. Available from
various dealers, including Pratt
Hobbies. (Google
search for Quest Nike-Smoke kit dealers) |
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Last
Updated 4/18/04